Manaslu Expedition (8,163m)
What is Mt. Manaslu?
Mt. Manaslu a part of Nepalese Himalayas in the Gorkha massif with an altitude of 8161m is world’s eighth highest peak. It is also known as Kutang. The location of this mountain peak is in Mansiri Himal in Gorkha district of Nepal. “Manasa” in Sanskrit means “Mountain of the Spirit” is converted to this Gorkha’s highest peak Mt. Manaslu as "intellect" or "soul". This Mt. Manaslu is situated about 40 miles east of Mt. Annapurna of Kaski District. Manaslu is an imposing mountain being a 3092m prominence it extends from crops cultivation area to the area permanently covered with snow and ice; hence it looks like a serrated wall of snow and ice hanging in the sky. Manaslu's long ridges and valley glaciers offer feasible approaches from all directions, and culminate in a peak that towers steeply above its surrounding landscape.
Manaslu region is located in Central Nepal and was opened to trekkers only in 1991. But lots of mountaineering expedition teams had access for long time. In 1950 a group headed by H.W. Tilman trekked this area for the first time and ever since this area has been quite popular among tuff trekkers. This area is still restricted to a limited number of groups and only organized trekkers in groups can trek in this area. Manaslu region is very remote and rescue is very difficult. This is possible wilderness area to live leopard of snow. Yet the trek is geographically spectacular and culturally fascinating. Lots of people residing in this area especially in the upper Buri Gandaki (river) Valley are Tibetan. A place in this valley called Nupri (meaning Western Mountain in Tibetan) is a trading center among Tibetans and Tibetans residing in these areas.
Mt. Manaslu Expedition:
Mt. Manaslu is located in a remote and isolated area and the first photographs were obtained only in 1950 by British expedition. It was surveyed for climbing by Japanese expedition in 1952 and after few attempts between 1953 and 1956 Manaslu was finally climbed by Japanese in 1956. This Japanese team was all of female team introduced a first women successor of climbing over 8000m peak. Mt. Manaslu Expedition requires more time than other 8000m Peaks in Nepal due to long approach to reach to the base of the mountain. However, we can use a helicopter to make an expedition shorter. This Manaslu Expedition is one of the most dangerous mountain climbing activities and hence we suggest to choose this trip only by the experienced climbers.
Mt. Manaslu Expedition Base Camp Services:
In the Base Camp,
- Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
- We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize all required accommodation and food.
- Our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
- We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only.
- We also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
- We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries.
Manaslu Expedition Full Board Services:
- For full board clients we provide personal tent and food, which will be prepared by their climbing Sherpa. We provide UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
- We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. The secret of success on Manaslu is a strong and experienced climbing Sherpa. No matter how good and experienced climber, it is a long slog. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1 and camp 2 and camp 3 including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day.
Approaches to ABC:
- The trek into the base camp of Manaslu is absolutely breathtaking and takes you back in time when all Himalayan mountains were approached on foot. The trek starts at low elevation of 950m in Arughat and rises gradually over next 10 trekking days. It is a perfect way to acclimatize before base camp is reached and to take on climbing relatively quickly. From the village of Arughat situated in the low country the trek climbs through narrow gorges, rhododendron forest and local pastures to emerge into the higher alpine country with Tibetan influences.
- The Advanced Base Camp (ABC) (4800m) is located at the lateral moraine of the Manaslu Glacier and it can be reached within 10 days trek or there is also option of flying in to ABC by MI-17 helicopter from Kathmandu.
- Manaslu has many interesting routes leading to the common summit and many of them were climbed and explored. The standard commercial route is along the original route of the 1956 Japanese expedition up the Northeast face.
- The climb is straightforward and only slightly more technical then Cho Oyu or Shishapangma, however with low Base Camp it is a long climb and with relatively high objective avalanche risk.
- Traditionally there are 3 camps above base camp C1 (5,500m), C2 (6,300m) and C3 (7,300 m). Some expeditions establish an intermediate camp between C2 and C3 at 6,700m. The terrain encountered on the ascents varies from glacier crossings to steep snow steps and requires a good understanding of basic alpine climbing techniques. Manaslu has been climbed Alpine style but traditionally all commercial operators practice expedition style to improve the chances of summit success for the clients.
Elevation: 8,163m (26,763ft)
Location: Nepal/Manaslu Region/Lamjung District
Coordinates: 28°33′0″ N 84°33′35″ E
First Ascent: Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu (Japan), May 9, 1956
Climbing Season: Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn
Expd duration: 54 days (typically)
Climbing duration: 32 days (typically)
Group Size: 02-15 person per Group
- Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Permit & Cost
- Royalty Free Mountain
- Peaks Opened for Mountaineering
- Trekking Peak Permit
- Climbing Rules in Nepal
- Peak Climbing Guide
- List of Opened Peaks
- List of Unclimbed Peaks
Peak Climbing Question/Answers
What is trekking peak?
Trekking Peaks are the mountain which can be approached in a day to the summit from their base camp including return to the basecamp. Trekking peaks are generally between 5000m to below 7000m. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). These peaks are also called NMA Trekking Peaks.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Associationauthorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaksrequire one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.