Ama Dablam Expedition
Ama Dablam Expedition (6,812M)
Mt. Ama Dablam is considered by some as the most beautiful mountain in the world. Whether you agree with such superlatives or not – it is certainly a remarkable peak that has a particular attraction to any keen mountaineer. Snowy Horizon has plenty of experience in organizing this expedition – a key to success (as well as safety) on the mountain.
The characteristic Pyramid shape lead some to call Ama Dablam the ‘Matterhorn’ of the Himalayas and, at least as seen from Namche, there is a certain similarity. The hanging glacier on the southwest face of Ama Dablam resembles a ‘Dablam’- the sacred ornament box worn by Sherpa women –giving rise to the name “Ama Dablam” or “Mother’s necklace”.
Mt. Ama Dablam is located in the Khumbu region to the south of Everest and Lhotse. As you would expect, that allows for some stunning views during the climb as well as on the summit. The mountain stands above the famous Tangboche Monastery which is traditionally visited by climbers in the region.
It should be stressed that, despite all the pleasant parts, this is in general a demanding climb and participation in an Ama Dablam Expedition demands solid skills of rock climbing, ice climbing, sufficient experience of high altitude and general technical competency. There are steep ice sections to be overcome at high altitude and there are sections of serious exposure which can be particularly challenging. If you have previous climbing experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's most impressive mountain then this Ama Dablam Expedition is the well-suited for you.
The most popular route for climbing Ama Dablam is the Southwest Ridge. The climb is typically done with three camps along the ridge.Camp 3 is usually established just below and to the right of the hanging glacier, the Dablam, so that any ice that calves off the glacier typically moves away from the camp. Nevertheless, a certain risk of serac falls cannot be avoided. As with other mountains in the region, the best climbing months are April-May before the monsoon season and September-October, after the monsoon.
Experience Required: All climbers need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. We will fix ropes and make use of the existing infrastructure (if any), however, the climbers should possess the necessary skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice without them. We follow the standard South West ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is consider the safer route with lower objective dangers such as avalanches.
We begin the approach as usual in the region from Lukla (2850m) and then slowly trek through the Sherpa villages along the trail. We take our time to properly acclimatize before we reach base camp and begin the climbing period. We at Snowy Horizon pride ourselves in executing this expedition with a focus on quality as well as safety.
As always, the package can be flexibly adjusted to your requirements (in case you want some additional acclimatization time beforehand etc.) – feel free to contact us any time for suggestions and advice. We’d be happy to take you on this adventure.
Ama Dablam Expedition Base Camp Service:
- Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the Expedition. Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
- We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize all required accommodation and food.
- In the Base camp our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three times delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
- We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients.
- We also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
- We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries.
Ama Dablam Expedition Full Board Service:
- In full board Service we provide personal tent and food, which will be prepared by their climbing Sherpa.
- We provide UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
- We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 including food and fuel provisions, and assist the client all the way to the summit on this technical climb, where one requires a climbing buddy and a be layer. The climb requires cooperation between teams in setting up fixed ropes. Our camp manager and guides will coordinate work with other teams on the route setting.
Approaches to ABC:
Approach to the Base camp is short, sweet and beautiful beginning with the amazing flight to Lukla and following Everest Base camp trail through Namche Bazaar to Pengboche and peeling off it just past Pangboche. The Base camp is located at 4200m.
The standard climbing route is via the Southwest ridge with typical arrangement of 3 high camps: Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (5900m) and Camp 3 (6200m) with Base Camp at 4500m and High Camp at 5000m.
High Camp is located 150m below the ridge and all other 3 camps are directly on the ridge ensuring a great vantage point for all camps for stunning views.
Elevation: 6,812m (22,334ft)
Location: Nepal/Everest Region
Coordinates: 27°51′40″ N 86°51′40″ E
First Ascent: Maurice Herzog (Nepal), June 3, 1950
Climbing Season: spring: April-May and autumn: September-October
Expd duration: 30 days (typically)
Climbing duration: 16 days (typically)
Group Size: 02-15 person per Group
- Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Permit & Cost
- Royalty Free Mountain
- Peaks Opened for Mountaineering
- Climbing Rules in Nepal
- Peak Climbing Guide
- List of Opened Peaks
- List of Unclimbed Peaks
Peak Climbing Question/Answers
What is trekking peak?
Trekking Peaks are the mountain which can be approached in a day to the summit from their base camp including return to the basecamp. Trekking peaks are generally between 5000m to below 7000m. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). These peaks are also called NMA Trekking Peaks.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Associationauthorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaksrequire one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.