Mt. Baruntse Expedition (7,129m)
Mt. Baruntse lies in the heart of Khumbu Region on the lap of Mt. Everest and Mt. Makalu. This mountain is becoming famous like Mt. Pumori, Ama Dablam and Mt. Everest for expedition in this region. Baruntse is another attractive Mountain for climbing due to its location, classical symmetrical beauty and relatively accessible to climbers across wide range of skills. It is the most accessible 7000-meter peak in the region besides having a normal route of ascent. World famous summiteers Edmond Hillary and Jim McFarland were also the first summiteers of Mt. Baruntse. Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow ascended Baruntse firstly on 30 May 1954.
The south -East Ridge of Baruntse is a bit difficult because of being straightforward hard ways to climb. In the Expedition of Mt. Baruntse there are hard sections of 50 Degree's elevation with a prominent ice cliff for climbing and facing the risk of avalanche. The climbers have succeeded the mountain mostly in the spring season because of being the best season to the climber for safety. However, some climbers have reached on the top of this mountain in the autumn season too.
Expedition of Baruntse is an experience sense of being in a remote area without investing considerable amount of time and efforts. There are two ways of getting to the peak from Lukla via Mera La Pass and Hunku glacier with a possibility of climbing Mera peak as a part of adventure and from Tumlingtar along the Makalu access trek and West Barun glacier. Second option offers also a crossover and walk out via Mera La pass to Lukla, a full spectrum adventure.
The ascent route for Baruntse Expedition is through the southern ridge overhanging the famous West pass; this is in fact the traditional route opened by Hillary and Ship Ton in 1952. The regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you across the Hongu valley, one of the most fertile regions in Nepal, passing northward through a beautiful alpine environment. The walk passes through delightful Sherpa country and provides for excellent acclimatization. The Baruntse base camp is at an altitude of around 5400m and sits near the pristine lakes below Amphu Labtsa pass. The route then follows a long ridge leading to the summit. An ascent on Baruntse is an adventure for climbers wishing to meet a true Nepalese 7000 meter’s Peak.
Baruntse Climbing Base Camp Services:
- Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the Baruntse Base Camp and during the climb. Our objective is to provide a high quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize Baruntse summit opportunity.
- We offer wide range of service from Base Camp logistics to fully guided climbs with individual climbing Sherpas helping their clients to achieve a summit.
- High elevation climbing requires not only a set of climbing skills and the fitness level but also the ability to cope with high elevation conditions affecting on ability to function to the extent possible at sea level, where most of climbers are living.
- Our philosophy is to support climbers by the skill and high altitude genetic ability of Climbing Sherpa, born and grew up at higher elevation as did his predecessors.
- Baruntse as all other 7000m peaks require set-up of 2-3 high camps, where the gear, food and fuel has to be carried. No matter how physically strong and fit one is at the sea level. At high level, your physical efficiency drops considerably and the team of Climbing Sherpas pooled from all clients will set-up the route and allow you to summit.
- Having personal Climbing Sherpa eliminates arbitrage of the ‘Leader’ to decide who will get limited climbing support on the summit day. In the emergency situation the classic expedition Leader has responsibility for a number of people including themselves with impaired physical abilities due to high altitude, while Climbing Sherpa has only responsibility for his own client and with high physical abilities at high elevation due to natural genetic predisposition and all in cooperation of other expedition Climbing Sherpas. Our Climbing Sherpas are highly trained and experienced climbers doing high elevation climbs in Nepal and Tibet season after season.
- We believe that our philosophy of an expedition with the Base camp Leader-Coordinator and the team of Climbing Sherpas assigned to individual climbers is by far the most efficient and safest way to achieve high elevation summit.
- Our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
- We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients. We also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
- We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
- Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple climbs above 7000m, so whether you use our full board service or Base camp services you can expect good advice and support with them. They also know personally most of other Climbing Sherpas and network together in the Base camp regardless of the operator they work for.
Baruntse Expedition Full Board Service:
- For full board clients, who would be less experienced climbers or single climbers requiring a climbing friend, we provide personal tent and food at high camps with the climbing Sherpa, who will prepare appropriate meals.
- We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up high camps including food provisions and fuel and will guide and assist the client on the summit day and if required will set-up fixed rope to ensure the safety.
- We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Base Camp from the climbing route. Our Climbing Sherpas will network, cooperate and work with other clients Climbing Sherpas on the route to ensure safety of his client as well as overall expedition team.
- After arriving to the Base camp (5300m) we will take a day or so of acclimatizing rest and preparations including snow practice so that we all develop common understandings and refresh our basic climbing and rescue techniques. We develop our climbing protocol. Our climb protocol will follow principles of standard high elevation and acclimatization and building higher camps progressively.
- The standard route begins at the Base Camp (5300m) located on the Hunku glacier at the foot of the mountain on a small lake, which will be our water source. The water must be filtered or purified by iodine tablets, or boiling.
- We will first climb to Camp 1 located at 6100m along the Hunku glacier to the 150m long steep gully leading to West Col. We will set-up fixed rope bee line to the Col, climb to Camp 1 and return to Base camp for overnight rest. As a next step, we climb up to camp 1, set it up and stay there overnight. We will explore route to camp-2, and return to the base Camp for another rest day.
- We move from the Base Camp directly to camp-2 (6400m), setup the camp and stay there overnight. There will be an opportunity for summit attempt for members who feel strong. We return to Base camp for couple of rest days to rest and recover followed by another summit attempt. Our program allows 9 days for the climbing period to account for weather and individual physical condition and strength. It gives us plenty of opportunities to carry supplies to camp 1 and 2 and few opportunities of summit push.
Approaches to ABC via Mera La Pass and the Hongu Valley:
- We will follow a standard approach from Lukla to Mera peak via Zatrawala Pass and picturesque Hinku valley, where we undergo acclimatization at Tangnag and Khare. From Mera La pass, we will have an option to climb easy Mera Peak via Mera glacier for acclimatization and warm-up to Baruntse.
- From Mera la Pass, we down climb to Hunku glacier valley and follow it to Baruntse Base camp at the base of Baruntse below the West Col with one overnight camp at Seto Pokhari.
Normal Route - Southeast Ridge
- The Southeast Ridge of Baruntse is a straightforward climb, mainly on snow but at high altitudes and crossing some steep sections of ice at 50°, with a prominent ice cliff at about 7,000m. We will setup fixed line there.
- The ridge geometry and position makes it prone to accumulation of cornices. Despite the cornices appearing very stable, we safeguard the steeper sections by fixed lines in places where we have to traverse between the camps. The avalanche risk on the lower slopes of the mountain appears to be low. The most successful ascents are made in the spring when good snow conditions prevail. This is also objectively the safest time on the mountain.
- We establish the Base Camp at 5300m (17,400ft) in a broad open valley next to a beautiful lake on the lateral moraine of the Hunku glacier near the base of the mountain.
Camp 1 (6100m):
- To reach camp 1 (6100m) located on the West Col on the edge of Upper Barun glacier, we cross Hunku glacier to a steep gully leading directly toward. The 150m steep and 50deg climb to the West Col from the glacier there will be fixed ropes to provide a beeline to camp-1 for safe carrying of the loads required for the climb.
Camp 2 (6400m):
- Camp 2 (6400m) is located on the edge of the Upper Barun glacier at the start of Southeast Ridge. From camp 1at West Col we begin a long glacier ascent on low angled glacial slope; we may to use a fixed rope to protect against open or hidden crevasses.
- From camp-2 we climb-up is a short steep of 75 degrees ice wall to a small Col at 6500m. Next section to 6700m is 45deg snow shoulder after which we reach a sharp summit ridge of Baruntse, which we follow to the wide summit cone leading to Mitru summit at 7129m.The view from the summit is just incredible, truly stunning views of Lhotse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Kangchenjunga, Makalu, and the Khumbu Himal.
Elevation: 7,129m (23,389ft)
Location: Nepal/Khumbu Region
Coordinates: 27°53′00″ N 86°59′00″ E
First Ascent: Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow, May 30, 1954
Climbing Season: Late spring and autumn
Expedition duration: 32 days (typically)
Climbing duration: 9 days (typically)
Group Size: 02-15 person per Group
- Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Permit & Cost
- Royalty Free Mountain
- Peaks Opened for Mountaineering
- Climbing Rules in Nepal
- Peak Climbing Guide
- List of Opened Peaks
- List of Unclimbed Peaks
Peak Climbing Question/Answers
What is trekking peak?
Trekking Peaks are the mountain which can be approached in a day to the summit from their base camp including return to the basecamp. Trekking peaks are generally between 5000m to below 7000m. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). These peaks are also called NMA Trekking Peaks.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Associationauthorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaksrequire one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.