Dhaulagiri Expedition (8,167m)
The Mt. Dhaulagiri:
The 7th highest mountain peak in the world is Mt. Dhaulagiri. It is the 5th highest one amongst in Nepal. This mountain is located in the Northwest of Myagdi District of Nepal. Dhavala means “White” and Giri means “Mountain peak” from Sanskrit, is a real giant which endorse to say the range of White Mountains as Dhavala-giri here after called Mt.Dhaulagiri in combined. The real altitude of Mt Dhaulagiri is (8,167m) from sea level. Mt. Dhaulagiri is one of the most formidable peaks to climb with the first successful summit only in 1960 by the Swiss following from the Northeast ridge. This mountain was first sighted by the British surveyors in India in the early 1800s but remained virtually unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949. Five ridges buttress Dhaulagiri l and even up until the early 1980's only the Northeast ridge had been successfully climbed. Dhaulagiri is considered the most interesting peak among the eight thousand meters one. In terms of rise above the terrain Dhaulagiri is unparallel as it rises 7000m over Kali Gandaki valley over horizontal length of 30km, which by any standard is an impressive statistic.
Mt. Dhaulagiri Expedition:
The vast majority of ascents to date have been via the first ascent route, which is the "Normal Route" on the Expedition of Dhaulagiri. However ascents have been made from almost every direction in this mountain. Dhaulagiri has 5 ridges and south and west faces, which raise 4000m from their Base Camps, offering opportunities to develop many interesting routes from Italian, Swiss and French camps. As of 2007, there had been 358 summit ascents of Dhaulagiri and 58 climbing fatalities on the mountain. Due to its technically challenging routes, the lack of big commercial expeditions is one of the more attractive qualities of Dhaulagiri as only seasoned mountaineers seem to have interest in this formidable mountain.
Snowy Horizon is pleased to offer for our beloved Expedition members to this unforgettable and highly exciting mountain expedition in Mt. Dhaulagiri as the world-class equipped and managed project. We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize logistics for provision of all required accommodation and food. Upon request or if previously confirmed we are ready to supply all necessary logistics, rescues, supports etc. to the climbers included in the Expedition.
Dhaulagiri Expedition Base Camp Service:
- Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the climb. Our objective is to ensure a good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
- We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the track to the ABC we organize logistics for provision of all required accommodation and food.
- Our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
- We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board or base-camp service only.
- We also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
- We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries.
Dhaulagiri Expedition Full Board Service:
- Snowy Horizon provides personal tent and food, which will be prepared in high camps by their climbing Sherpa. We provide UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
- We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3 including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day. There are no commercial expeditions on Dhaulagiri so your climbing Sherpa with cooperation of other clients climbing Sherpas will set-up fixed ropes.
Approaches to ABC (Advance Base Camp):
- The approach to the Base Camp is from Pokhara, driving to Beni Bazaar and trekking from there along the Kali Gandaki Valley through Tatopani (1189m), Ghasa (2012m), and Marpha (2667m) before turning off to Yak Kharka (3680m) and the Dhaulagiri Base Camp (4700m). The trek to the Base Camp takes 5 days. On the way back we trek only 2 days to Jomsom (2710m) and take the flight back to Pokhara.
- Normal route is via Northeast Ridge, the original route climbed by Swiss-Austrian expedition in 1960. Typically 4 camps will be set up for the climbing. The Advance Base Camp is established at 5,300m, just to deposit the gear but it will not be used as an overnight camp due to avalanche danger.
- Camp 1 will be established at 5,900m on the Col east from the ABC.
- Camp 2 will be established at 6,400m, which is reached from camp 1 with some steep climbing sections.
- Camp 3 (7200m) will be located towards west with steep ice and snow climbing. From Camp 3 we climb towards the East Ridge, where we likely experience strong wind conditions before reaching camp 4 (7500m). This is the most difficult part of the climb.
- From camp 4 we make direct push for the summit and return to camp 3 if the conditions will allow us. With difficult conditions the fallback is to setup bevy at 7,900m in order to attempt another summit push next day.
Elevation: 8,167m (26,795ft)
Height Rank: 7
Location: Dhaulagiri Himal
Coordinates: 27°53′0″ N 87°05′00″ E
First Ascent: Swiss-Austraian team, May 13, 1960
Climbing Season: Late spring (traditionally less hazardous) and autumn
Expd duration: 54 days (typically)
Climbing duration: 32 days (typically)
Group Size: 02-15 person per Group
- Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Permit & Cost
- Royalty Free Mountain
- Peaks Opened for Mountaineering
- Climbing Rules in Nepal
- Peak Climbing Guide
- List of Opened Peaks
- List of Unclimbed Peaks
Peak Climbing Question/Answers
What is trekking peak?
Trekking Peaks are the mountain which can be approached in a day to the summit from their base camp including return to the basecamp. Trekking peaks are generally between 5000m to below 7000m. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). These peaks are also called NMA Trekking Peaks.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Associationauthorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaksrequire one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.