Mt. Lhotse Expedition (8516m):
Mt. Lhotse better known as “south peak” and part of the Everest massif is the fourth highest mountain peak in the earth with an altitude of 8516m. Lhotse has 3 summits, main summit at 8,516m, Lhotse Middle (East) at 8,414m and Lhotse Shar at 8,383m. Lhotse is best known for its proximity to Mt. Everest and the fact that climbers ascending the standard route on that peak spend some time on its northwest face. It is the smallest prominence, only 610m, of all 8000m peaks. Lhotse is however famous for its tremendous and dramatic south face. The south face of Lhotse raises 3.2km within 2.25km horizontal distance making it the steepest face of this size in the world. It is extremely difficult climb and rarely attempted. The South Face of Lhotse is one of the largest mountain faces in the world.
The primary route on Mt. Lhotse is via Everest's South Col. but by 1955, despite the activity on Mt. Everest, Lhotse was the highest unclimbed peak in the world. It was first climbed by the Swiss duo of F. Luchsinger and E.Reiss in 1956 on the West Face. The South Face of Mt. Lhotse though attempted many times was successfully climbed only in 1984 by a Czech. On May 12, 1979 Lhotse Shar summit was reached and the middle summit was climbed only on May 23, 2001.
Mt. Lhotse Expeditions:
In the Expedition of Mt. Lhotse, Lhotse Base Camp is located beside the Khumbu Glacier, same as Everest Base Camp. The section during the climb which has been unanimously declared the most dangerous is the Khumbu Icefall. This beautiful massif also holds immense promise as it is little developed and offers fascinating opportunities.
Mt. Lhotse Face and Route:
- The commercial route is from its north side via Khumbu icefall sharing its length with Everest south route. The south face is one of the most impressive walls in Himalayas. The first expedition from the south side was Yuogo Slavian leading by A.Kunaver. They selected the left side of the wall but they manage to only get to 8100 meters. Three police expedition tried to climb through the left wall in 1985, 1987 and 1989, the highest point they reach was 8300 meters.
- The western flank of Lhotse is known as the Lhotse Face. Any climber bound for the South Col on Everest must climb this 1,125m wall of glacial blue ice. This face rises at 40 and 50 degree pitches with the occasional 80 degree bulges. Two rocky sections called the Yellow Band and the Geneva Spur interrupt the icy ascent on the upper part of the face.
- The south face was finally climbed in 1990 by Russian expedition few months after Cesen's climb. They describe the wall as impossible to be climbed by a single person.
Mt. Lhotse Expedition Base Camp Service:
In the Base Camp…………..
- Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC and during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
- Our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
- We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board and base-camp service. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
- We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
- Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple climbs to 8000m peaks. They will ensure cooperation with other companies and Base Camp organization. The Base Camp is a cooperative to ensure contribution from all operators to the task of route fixing to ensure the safety of climbers from ABC to the summit.
Lhotse Expedition Full Board Service:
For full board service additional……
- We provide personal tent and food with the climbing Sherpa, who will prepare appropriate meals. If we have 7 clients in the expedition we also will provide a cook for the group and intermediate facility at camp 2 (6750m); this will include personal tents for full board clients, kitchen and dining tents and the toilet facility. We provide meals while our clients are in camp 2.
- We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 3 and camp 4 including food provisions, fuel and oxygen and will guide and assist the client on the summit day. We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Camp 2 and Base Camp from Camp 3, 4 and the climbing route.
- Lhotse commercial route via Khumbu icefall and Northwest couloirs:
- The route is technically a strenuous trekking route with a little objective danger once past the Khumbu icefall, apart of few crevasses and seracs bridged by ladders, couple short ice cliffs around camp 3 and rock sections protected with fixed lines. There is an obvious danger of high altitude sickness complications and changeable, unpredictable mountain weather.
- The Khumbu Icefall is a steep glacier with obvious implication of large crevasses and treacherous unstable seracs making navigation complicated and riddled with high objective danger of falling ice. This is the most dangerous part of the climb. At the beginning of the climbing period, climbing Sherpa set the route through the icefall installing ladders across crevasses and along vertical seracs ice walls for efficient and easy climbing. These arrangements make climb of the Khumbu ice fall possible, efficient and relatively safe especially early morning before the sunrise, when the ice structure is well frozen. Khumbu ice fall is very dangerous in the afternoon due to its western aspect.
- Camp 1 (6065m) is located on the top of Khumbu icefall; it is a desolate and exposed place mainly used as rest and transition location on the way to camp 2 (6750m). The glacier between camp 1 and 2 flattens but there are still large crevasses close to camp 1, which are also fixed with ladders.
- Camp 2 is located in a lateral moraine at the bottom of west ridge. It is a very safe and sheltered location with tremendous views on Lhotse. All companies set-up their main climbing camp for the duration of climbing period with tents for individual climbers, the kitchen and dining tents. Camp 2 is main acclimatization camp and the base for camp 3 acclimatization climb and the final summit attempt.
- Camp 3 (7100m) is located on small ledge on the Lhotse wall. One has to cross the glacier to the right side before 40deg 600m climb on the compact snow field. The route is safe with couple of short less then 3m ice cliffs, which climbing Sherpas set up with fixed ropes.
- Camp 4 (7920m) located near South Col is the last camp; it is easily accessible by majority of climbers without supplementary oxygen. There are two rock sections to navigate before camp 4: Yellow Bands, interlayer marble, phyllite and semi-schist rocks and Geneva Spur, an anvil shaped rib of black rocks; they are again set-up with fixed ropes.
- From camp 4 the route enters 500m couloirs about 40deg along a mix of pack snow, ice and some rock.
Elevation: 8,516m (27,940ft)
Location: Nepal/Tibet border
Coordinates: 27°57′42″ N 86°56′00″ E
First Ascent: Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger (Swiss), May 18, 1956
Climbing Season: Late spring
Expd duration: 44 days (typically)
Climbing duration: 27 days (typically)
Group Size:01-15 person per Group if more we splits group.
- Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Permit & Cost
- Royalty Free Mountain
- Peaks Opened for Mountaineering
- Climbing Rules in Nepal
- Peak Climbing Guide
- List of Opened Peaks
- List of Unclimbed Peaks
Peak Climbing Question/Answers
What is trekking peak?
Trekking Peaks are the mountain which can be approached in a day to the summit from their base camp including return to the basecamp. Trekking peaks are generally between 5000m to below 7000m. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). These peaks are also called NMA Trekking Peaks.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Associationauthorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaksrequire one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.