Pumori Expedition (7161m.)
About Mt. Pumori:
The most popular mountain for those who wish to climb 7000m peaks in the Himalayas of Nepal is Mt. Pumori (7161m). Mt. Pumori is situated in Khumbu region with the pyramid shaped and stunningly looking Peak 8km west of Mount Everest along Nepal-Tibet Border. Mt. Pumori dominates the skyline behind Kalapatther 5643m, which looks like a clump of rock on Pumori Southwest ridge. Pumori Expedition proves an ideal preparation for those aspiring for the more technical 8000m peaks including the Mt Everest. The peak was named "Pumori" by George Leigh Mallory, apparently means "Unmarried Daughter" in the Sherpa language. The best season to explore this stunning peak is September to November and March to May.
Mt. Pumori Expedition:
Mt. Pumori is first ascended in 1964 by a German Swiss expedition team. Although a 7,000er, Mt. Pumori is technically challenging mountain offering sections of wild exposure requiring climbers to have previous mountaineering experience and with excellent physical fitness level. Mt. Pumori Expedition is rewarded with stunning photographic views of snowy mountains including Mt. Lhotse and Mt. Everest.
The climb to Pumori is very popular and coveted as introductory qualifying climb for Everest by many operators. Whatever your reason to climb it is a fun and reasonably straightforward and accessible climb with relatively low objective danger. It is also a very nice introduction to climbing in Khumbu region and a funny way to do Everest Base Camp trek with 7000m peak climb which is easy, quick and non-cumbersome acclimatization process. We arrange both the logistic support and guided climbing for Pumori expedition. Climbing Pumori requires a moderate technical climb on ice and snow. The normal route for the climbing is South East Ridge.
- Our plan is to attempt a summit via the Standard Route on the South East Ridge, a grade 3 snows and ice climb that requires a good understanding of alpine climbing techniques and familiarity with the effects of high altitude.
- We take the classic route along the South-East Ridge. Generally three camps are set up above the base camp. The Base camp will be set up at 5300m. Climb through the glaciers for approx. 4 hours and reach Camp 1 at 5700m.
- From Camp 1, we climb the face with 40-60 degrees slope and pass through a snow wall to reach camp 2 at 6200m.
- From camp 2, climb through ice walls and crevasses to reach Camp 3 at 6480m. Passing through crevasses, climb up to Pumori cliff and then to the summit.
Mt. Pumori Expedition Base Camp Services:
In the Base Camp,
- Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, helpful and friendly service from Kathmandu to the ABC and during the climb. Our objective is to provide a good quality, helpful, safe, friendly, stress free and comprehensive service to maximize summit opportunity.
- Our cooks and helpers will prepare and serve three delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
- We provide spacious expedition quality personal tents for all our clients both with full board and base-camp service. In the base camp we also provide dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
- We provide access to communication including satellite telephone and internet access, solar panels to charge your batteries and UHF/VHF hand held radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
- Our Leader and camp manager as well as climbing Sherpas have an extensive experience of multiple climbs above 7000m, so whether you use our full board service or Base camp services you can expect good advice and support.
Mt. Pumori Expedition Full Board Services:
For full board clients additional,
- We provide personal tent and food with the climbing Sherpa, who will prepare appropriate meals. We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit.
- Personal climbing Sherpa will set up high camps including food provisions and fuel and will guide and assist the client on the summit day and if required will set-up fixed rope to ensure the safety.
- We provide the climbing Sherpa with appropriate radio communication to Base Camp from the climbing route.
Approaches to ABC:
The approached to Pumori route is through the Khumbu region of Nepal leading up to the Khumbu Glacier extending down to Lobuche (4900m). It starts with the flight to Lukla and the trek via Namche Bazaar (3440m), Tengaboche (36600m), Pheriche (4270m), Lobuche (4910m), Gorak Shep (5140m) to Pumori Base Camp (5300m). It takes typically 8 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.
- The standard route begins at the Base Camp (5300m) located above Gorak Shep on a small lake, which will be our water source. The water must be either filtered or purified by iodine tablets or boiled. The Base Camp is located at the base of Kalapatther (5545m), which forms a tremendous backdrop for the camp. The camp is also elevated above the Gorak Shep and hence it has an amazing view on Everest.
- Camp 1, serving really as the Advanced Base Camp (ABC) is located on a protected rock outcrop at 5300m; it takes only 3hrs of hiking to reach Camp 1 from the Base Camp. It will be our base to store our gear and supplies for the climb.
- Camp 2 (6200m) is located on a narrow ridge on the top of ice ledge. The route to camp 2 is a mixed snow and rock with a slope to 35deg and will involve some scrambling. Where required our Climbing Sherpa will fix the rope for the rest of the climbing period
- Camp 3 is located on the ridge on a protected flat area below a rock buttress at 6700m. The section from camp 2 to camp 3 is short but it is the most difficult section of the climb due to a short but steep icy snow section of some 6m and about 75deg, where the fixed rope will be set-up. After that the slope flattens and we reach Camp 3 about 100m above. There is some objective danger of crevasses and fallen ice from overhanging seracs. We are on the ridge and view is tremendous on Everest massif as well as the view opens towards Tibetan plateau.
Elevation: 7,161m (27,494ft)
Location: Nepal/Tibet border
Coordinates: 28°00′53″ N 86°49′41″ E
First Ascent: Gerhard Lenser (Swiss), 1962
Climbing Season: Late spring
Expd duration: 44 days (typically)
Climbing duration: 27 days (typically)
Group Size: 02-15 person per Group
- Climbing Equipment
- Climbing Permit & Cost
- Royalty Free Mountain
- Peaks Opened for Mountaineering
- Trekking Peak Permit
- Climbing Rules in Nepal
- Peak Climbing Guide
- List of Opened Peaks
- List of Unclimbed Peaks
Peak Climbing Question/Answers
What is trekking peak?
Trekking Peaks are the mountain which can be approached in a day to the summit from their base camp including return to the basecamp. Trekking peaks are generally between 5000m to below 7000m. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). These peaks are also called NMA Trekking Peaks.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Associationauthorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaksrequire one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.