Mountaineering in Nepal
In exercise of the powers conferred by Government of Nepal, Nepal Mountaineering Association has made the following rules to be observed for the climbing of the peaks of Nepal Himalaya listed in Appendix '1'. These rules will come into force at once.
- Where applicable definitions for these rules will be the same as those for Government of Nepal Mountaineering Expedition Regulations 1979 and its first Amendment 1984.
- Any person or mountaineering team desirous of climbing the peak listed in Appendix '1' must receive permission from Nepal Mountaineering Association. Application to climb the peak must be made in the form as prescribed in Appendix '2'. Permission to climb the peaks will be granted for a period of one month only. Permission may be extended, if necessary, for another period of two weeks. The period of permission granted relates to time spent for climbing above the base camp. The trek to and from the base camp is not included. Application for climbing permit may be made at any time by the concerned mountaineering team. Permit will be granted on a first come first serve basis. The right to give permission to another party for climbing the same peak during the same period is reserved by Nepal Mountaineering Association. Nepal Mountaineering Association will recommend to Immigration Office of Government of Nepal for obtaining trekking permit of the area to the team members.
Payment of fee:
- The climbing fee structure of NMA 18 Trekking Peaks listed in Appendix "1" is as follows:
|SN.||Name of the Peaks||Altitude in Meter||Himalayan Range||District||Caravan Rute|
|1.||Shigu Chuli(fluted peak)||6501 M||Annapurna Himal||Gandak||ktm-Pkr-Ghorepani-Tadhaani|
|2.||Mera Peak||6654 M||Khumbu Himal||Sagarmatha||Ktm-jiri-shivalaya- junbasi-nunthala-Kharikhola-poyanbung-chadrabu- kothe-thangna-khar|
|3.||Kusum Kangru||6367 M||Khumbu Himal||Sagarmatha||ktm-lukla-namcheThame-Khumjung-B.C.|
|4.||Kwandge||6011 M||Khumbu Himal||Sagarmatha||Ktm-Lukla-Merala-Randimng-Hunde-B.C.|
|5.||Chulu West||6419 M||Manang||Gandaki||Ktm-Besisahar-Ngadi-Jagat-Dharapani|
|6.||Imja-tse(Island Peak)||6160 M||Khumbu Himal||Sagarmatha||ktm-Lukla-Namche-Tyangboche-Pangpoche-Dingboche-chhukang-B.C.|
|7.||Pharchamo||6187 M||Rolwaling Himal||Janakpur||Ktm-Dolkha-siguti-jagat-simigaon-Chagebukharka-Beding-Na-B.C.|
|8.||Lobuje||6119 M||Khumbu Himal||Sagarmatha||Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Thame-RermoPokhari-Gokya-dzonghla-B.C.|
|9.||Ramdung||5925 M||Rolwaling Himal||Janakpur||Ktm-dolkha-Siguti-GongerDoranangbu-Beding-Na-Kabung-Kydug-Kongma-Drolmaban- Tashi Lapcha-B.C.|
|10.||Pisang||6091 M||Manang||Gandaki||Ktm-Beshisahar-Bahundanda-Chamja-Bagarchhap-Chame- Pisang B.C.|
|11.||Tharpu Chuli (Tent Peak)||5663 M||Annapurna Himal||
|12.||Khongma-tse(Mehara Peak)||5849 M||Khumbu Himal||Sagarmatha||Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Dole-Mechermo-gokyo-Dughala-B.C.|
|13.||Ganja-la Chuli(Naya Kanga)||5844 M||Langtang Himal||Bagmati||Ktm-Dhunche-Sysbru Goan- Lama hotel-Kyanjin Gomba-Ganjala B.C.|
|14.||Pokhalde||5806 M||Khumbu Himal||Sagarmatha||Ktm-Lukla-Namche-Dole-Gokya-Na-Thagna Cholapass B.C.|
|15.||Mardi Himal||5587 M||Annapurna Himal||Gandaki||Ktm-Pokhara-Hyangia-Dhiprang- Kharka-Mardi Basi Camp|
|16.||Paldor||5896 M||Langtang Himal||Bagmati||Ktm-Dhading-Ankhu khola-Rigaon-JAralang-Sertung-Krarka-somdang|
For extending permission, an additional 25% charge of the total amount of the initial fee will be made for each extra week. The leader or climbing member of the team must collect the permit in person from Nepal Mountaineering Association. The maximum number of person in a group is 12 pax.
- In the event of cancellation of the permission by NMA or the failure of the expedition to materialize due to some other reasons, the feels already paid will not be refunded. Every individual or party granted a climbing permit shall be accompanied by a Sirdar/Guide, who must be registered with NMA.
Functions and duties of the Sirdar/Guide:
- To assist the climbing party with recruitment of porters and other staff, control of porters, local purchase of food, etc. And to solve any problem that may arise to the best of his ability.
- To report to Nepal Mountaineering Association in case the party spends more than the prescribed time limit in the mountain.
- To ensure that the climbers comply with the terms of their permit.
- To ensure that the climbers (trekkers) follow the specified route.
- To ensure proper disposal of waste materials.
- To report to NMA any infringement of the climbing rules
- To report any serious incidents to the nearest police post.
Employment Conditions of the Sirdar/Guide:
- The Sirder Guide shall be employed from the day the climbing party begins the trek until the trek is finished. The Sirdar/Guide will be provided with the following facilities
- Minimum daily allowance to be paid as per the rules of Government of Nepal, Ministry of Tourism, and Civil Aviation.
- Food and tent accommodation.
- Climbing equipment and necessary clothing if required to go above the base camp.
Insurance of the Sirdar/Guide:
- All employees going above the base camp must be insured for personal accident to the value of Rs. 200,000.00.
Nomination of representative in Kathmandu:
- Each party granted climbing permit will nominate representative in Kathmandu to act as liaison between NMA and the climbing party. The representative may be an individual or an organisation registered with NMA. The nominated representative will be responsible for making necessary arrangements for the climbing party in case of accidents or any other unforeseen circumstances.
Submission of report:
- On the conclusion of the climb and on return to Kathmandu, the party will submit a report to NMA. in the form prescribed in Appendix '4'.
Power to cancel the permit:
- NMA may cancel or withdraw the climbing permit any time with or without showing any particular reason.
Non-compliance of the regulation:
- Where any trekking party acts in contravention to the climbing permit or indulges in acts of unsocial or outrageous behavior contrary to the customs and culture of the people of Nepal, NMA may recommend to Government of Nepal to take necessary measures in accordance with the article 37 of Mountaineering Regulations 1979.
Protection of Environment:
- Base camp and other camps will be left perfectly c lean at the conclusion of the climb. No foreign materials, such as fix rope, pitons, etc shall be left on the mountain. All rubbish and waste material must be burnt or otherwise disposed off.
Revision of the Regulations:
- Any article of this regulation may be revised or amended by NMA with prior permission of Government of Nepal.
Nepal with 1310 identified Himalayan peaks over 6000m including 8 out of 14 highest peaks in the world is unquestionably a premier mountaineering and climbing destination for thousands of climbers and mountaineers testing their skills and endurance and fulfilling their desire to summit a Himalayan peak and marvel the world from its rooftop. Currently there are 326 peaks open for climbing and mountaineering in Nepal.
Peak climbing expedition is usually both technically and physically very challenging activity. It requires considerable climbing skills and in Nepal usually is done on sub-eight thousand meters high mountains, where acclimatization is easier and more effort can be devoted to climbing skill rather then shier brute force to combat altitude.
Facts of Mountain Expedition
Identified Peaks: 1310 in Nepal
Above 8000m: 8 out of 14
Opened Peaks: 326 peaks open for climbing
Top Mountains: Mount Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri I, Manaslu, Nanga Parbat, Annapurna I
Peak Climbing Question/Answers
What is trekking peak?
Trekking Peaks are the mountain which can be approached in a day to the summit from their base camp including return to the basecamp. Trekking peaks are generally between 5000m to below 7000m. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). These peaks are also called NMA Trekking Peaks.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Associationauthorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaksrequire one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.