Everest Expedition (North Face)
Everest Expedition (North Face)
The Sagarmatha (forehead of the sky) in Nepali and Chomolungma in Tibetan is known as Mt. Everest in the world. Mt. Everest with the altitude of 8848m, is the highest peak in the earth, so, it is also known as the roof of the world. The South face of this recognized mountain lies in Nepal where as the North face is said to be laid in China’s autonomous state Tibet. This world’s highest peak was first officially measured in 1956 during the Great Trigonometry Survey of British India government and then known as Peak XV certified with the height of 8840m. With a simple technology and the distance from the mountain, the height was determined with really phenomenal accuracy and only 8m off from current value of 8848m.
The name of British Surveyor in 1956 was Sir George Everest also the General of British India during the survey period and hence to honor him the name of this highest peak was chosen as Mt. Everest. Tibet and Nepal were closed to foreigners, so it is reasonable to assume that local names of the mountain were unknown. It was lucky that the tallest mountain was not named after an unaccomplished politician or a royal family member.
The wealthy but inexperienced climber can be accomplished with everyone in a climbing pinnacle of Mt. Everest. The climbers can be taken to the summit for a substantial fee by a professional mountain guide with a team of climbing Sherpa guides. There are two commercial routes on Everest expedition, south route via Southeast Ridge from Nepal and via North Ridge from Tibet. The royalty of Everest Expedition from Tibet Side (North Face) is lower. The only royalty for single climber via Nepal side is US$ 25000 where as the climber has to pay US$ 7200 via China, which is extremely different.
Snowy Horizon is delighted to offer the world-class service in the Advance Base Camp and other higher camps of Mt. Everest from its north face in Tibet. Our service covers since arrivals in Kathmandu, Hotel accommodations, transfer to Kodari border for Tibet, 4 wheel drives and tea house full board services from Nyalam till Tingri before arriving to advance base camp.
For Everest Expedition, the climbing Guides of our company are highly skilled, time to time reviewed and recognized by worldwide due to their training and experiences in this profession and paid up the high range of wages and fees. To these guides and climbers in our Everest Expedition we are going to put on a rope with. This is a serious climb with serious consequences should things go wrong. So, one of the most things we have to keep in mind while operating Mt. Everest Expedition is prevention.
Approaches to ABC from North (Tibet):
- North Base Camp is approached from the Tingri Plain through Rongbuk (4880m), the location of famous Buddhist Monastery. Two day trek to Everest North Base Camp (6400m) begins at the Chinese Base Camp (5200m) with intermediate acclimatization in Middle Camp (5700m). Typically it takes 3 days to drive to Tingri (4300m) from Kathmandu with acclimatization stops in Zhangmu (1600m) and Nyalam (3700m). It takes typically 9 days to reach ABC from Kathmandu.
Climbing Routes of North Side:
- The north side of Everest in Tibet, northeast ridge route, begins from with the trek to the Rongbuk Glacier accessible from Tingri by jeep to Chinese Base camp (5,180m), which is located on a gravel plain just below the glacier.
- There is an intermediate Middle Camp before reaching the Advance Base Camp. To reach Middle Camp climbers ascend the medial moraine of the east Rongbuk Glacier up to the base of Changtse (6,100 m).
- The Advanced Base Camp (6500m) is situated below the North Col and there are 3 camps above before final summit push. The route is in a way more technical because there is more exposed rock and the weather is much more severe than on Nepalese side as it is exposed to winds all the time.
- Camp 1 is located on the North Col, where climbers face long and monotonous ascend of the glacier to the foot of the Col. Fixed ropes are used to reach the North Col (7,010m). From the North Col, there is ascending along the rocky north ridge to Camp 2 (7,775m).
- From Camp 2 the route crosses the North Face in a diagonal climb to the base of the Yellow Band reaching the site of Camp 3 (8,230m). Camp 3 the last camp from where the final summit push is staged.
- There are three famous Steps after camp 3. There is a treacherous traverse from the base of the First Step (8,500 m) to the crux of the climb, the Second Step (8,580 m). This includes a climbing aid called the "Chinese ladder", a metal ladder placed semi-permanently in 1975 by a party of Chinese climbers and used by virtually all climbers on the route. The Third Step is inconsequential (8,690 m) followed by a snow slope of 50 degrees and the final summit ridge to the summit pyramid.
Elevation: 8,848m (29,029ft)
Location: Nepal/Tibet border
Coordinates: 27°59′17″ N 86°55′31″ E
First Ascent: Edmund Hillary (NZ), Tenzing Norgay (Nepal), May 29, 1953
Climbing Season: Late spring and autumn
Expd duration: 63 days (typically)
Climbing duration: 27 days (typically)
Group Size:01-15 person per Group if more we splits group.