Himchuli Peak Climbing
Himchuli Peak Climbing
Himchuli Peak (6441m)offers exciting opportunities for climbers and Snowy Horizon has the experience to organize this challenging climbing trip. Himchuli lies in the Annapurna range and is connected to Annapurna South forming a massive south facing wall. The Himchuli was first summited by an American Peace Corps Expedition under the leadership of Craig Anderson in October 1971 via its southeast face. Trekkers usually notice Himchuli as a remarkable peak next-to Annapurna South. As can be expected, the summit of Himchuli offers magnificent view of the region.
The access is relatively easy as it follows the well-developed trekking trail in the Annapurna Sanctuary. Nevertheless, the mountain receives comparatively little attention by climbers. The Himchuli Peak is not technically difficult to climb but is vulnerable to rock falls, and route finding may also be a problem. Depending on the weather conditions, there can also be significant avalanche risk. However it also offers major new route potential for adventurous climbers. Snowy Horizon is one of the few companies with the experience to successfully organize this trip.
To access base camp, we follow the Annapurna sanctuary trekking trail up to Hinko and climb a very steep hill side to grassy meadows where we establish the base camp to climb the peak via the South - East face (which is the normal route). In most cases, three camps are set up for the approach to the summit of Himchuli. The other route is via the North - West Face for which the base camp is set up at Annapurna South base camp near the Annapurna base camp lodges.
South-East Face Route:This is the ‘normal route’. We access base camp from Hinko Cave on the Annapurna Sanctuary trail. After establishing the first camp somewhere above the valley, a further two camps are usually necessary to make it to the top. Although not technically extreme, this route is exposed to rock fall and is a complicated route finding experience.
North-West Face Route: The ascent via the North-West face is less frequented as it can prove trickier. The exact route can change depending on the conditions and requires some local recon. It requires more experience with judging snow and general mountain conditions. The general approach is from the Annapurna Base Camp in the Sanctuary and a further two camps may be necessary to complete this ascent.
Snowy Horizon offers you a full board package including the climbing permit from the NMA and all other necessary logistics – from arrival in Kathmandu up to your departure. We organize your accommodation in Kathmandu as well as throughout your trek, our cooks freshly prepare you nutritious meals throughout the climbing period and experienced and professional trekking and climbing guides accompany you on the trek as well as the climb. In addition, we can organize any sightseeing in and around Kathmandu. Upon your request, we can also offer only base camp service (including the climbing permit) where the climber may arrange all required logistics for any part of the climb above base camp.
The package can be flexibly adjusted to your requirements – feel free to contact us any time for suggestions and advice. We’d be happy to take you on this adventure.
Elevation: 6,441m (21,118ft)
Location: Annapurna region
Coordinates: 28°30´37´´N, 83°51´02´´E
First Ascent: American Peace Corps Expedition, October 1971
Climbing Season: spring (April, May) and autumn (October, November)
Expd duration: 22 days (typically)
Climbing duration: 2 days (typically)
Group Size: 2 – 12
Base Camp: Hinko Cave (3400m) 28°29'50.03"N 83°53'52.60"E
Normal Route: Southeast Face
Route Rating: YDS 3, mixed snow-ice-rock route, scrambling
I planned to climb Naya Kanga Peak in March and Snowy Horizon helped me a lot - I got a great guide who has done an impressive List of ascents of high mountains. He was a real fighter when it came to struggle against a hell lot of snow - yet we had to give in before reaching the High Camp.
Peak Climbing Question/Answers
What is trekking peak?
Trekking Peaks are the mountain which can be approached in a day to the summit from their base camp including return to the basecamp. Trekking peaks are generally between 5000m to below 7000m. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from Nepal Mountaineering Association (NMA). These peaks are also called NMA Trekking Peaks.
Who can climb a peak?
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit and anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt a peak climbing. Climbing difficulty varies for different mountains and routes. Non-technical climbs can be attempted by a fit trekker with little or no climbing experience. For technical climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience.
I have never climbed before. Can I go for peak climbing?
There is always first time for everything including peak climbing. There are non-technical peaks, which can be climbed safely by a fit trekker and even slightly technical peaks can be attempted by a novice climber with a professional climbing guide.
What are physical fitness criteria to climb a peak in Nepal?
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to peak elevation and route difficulty and length.
What is climbing permit?
Climbing Permit for trekking peaks is a legal document issued by the Nepal Mountaineering Associationauthorizing the climber to attempt the climb on designated peak or route. Attempting a climb without permit is illegal.
Do I need climbing permit?
Yes climbing permits are required to climb any peak above 5000m and it is illegal to do so without a climbing permit.
Who will lead me during climbing?
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while Peak Climbing.
Do I need travel insurance?
Yes the rescue insurance is required while climbing.
Which is the best season for peak climbing?
In general August to November and March to May are two climbing seasons in Nepal.
Do I need to join in a climbing group?
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group however climbing solo is an unsafe practice. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes.
What will be the food and accommodation?
During the access trek you will be accommodated in a lodge/teahouse; once in the basecamp you will be assigned a tent and your climbing Sherpa will prepare high altitude food; all your climbing gear and food for the climb will be carried by the porter up to the base camp.
How much time is generally required for trekking peak?
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of trekking peaksrequire one or two days to summit from the basecamp. The access time varies also and depends on peak location and peak elevation.
How difficult are the trekking peaks?
It depends on the Trekking Peak. There is a variety of peaks available ranging from non-technical through easy technical to difficult and very difficult technical routes.
Is there any age limit for trekking Peaks Climbing?
Children below 18 are Restricted for Peak Climbing in Nepal. Is this incorrect?
What are the sources of drinking water supply during Peak Climbing?
On most of treks bottled water is available. There are also purified filtered water stations in many lodges. The boiled water will be also available in the lodges and from the camp kitchen.
Where do we eat our meals?
On popular trails we will stay in lodges and guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with continental menu meals often available as well as soups and noodles and rice dishes; on some routes there will be a limited choice and on some more remote routes only local Nepal Dal Bhat and curry or instant noodle soups will be available. In the basecamp your Sherpa guide will prepare meals for you from instant dry meals.
Is there any communication while we are on trekking?
It all depends on the area with most of the trekking routeshaving local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phone.
What type of shoes or boots should I wear?
You need comfortable trekking shoes preferably with Gore-Tex style lining for ultimate comfort and thick vibratim soles to have comfortable walk on rocky paths. On snow routes you will also require crampons, climbing harness and on many climbs the iceaxe.
What problems can arise on altitude?
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sunblock. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You need to obtain travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover rescue insurance and it should allow the expense of helicopter supported medevac. Nowadays such policies are readily available through many airfare booking agents. Try ihi.com if you cannot find your insurance.
What type of insurance should I have? Where can I obtain the insurance?
You will require a travel insurance, which will not exclude climbing and helicopter evacuation. You need obtain your insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Climbing insurance may be obtained through some climbing clubs and some insurers such as IHI.
What is the cost of Peak Climbing?
The cost depends on peak you wish to climb and the number of climbers in the group. The cost of the climb consists of trekking cost, transportation costs (airfare or surface transportation), equipment and staff requirements, climbing duration and permit costs. Please consult us.