Ama Dablam Expedition
Overview
“Explore, experience, and enjoy the expedition of the most beautiful and the Pyramid shaped mountain on earth the Mt. Ama Dablam with team Snowy Horizon on both spring and autumn seasons of the year.”
Mt. Ama Dablam is one of the most beautiful mountains in the world. Whether you agree with such superlatives or not, it is certainly a remarkable peak that has a particular attraction to any keen mountaineer. Snowy Horizon has plenty of experience in organising this expedition, a key to success with full of safety on the mountain. The characteristic pyramid shape leads someone to call Ama Dablam the ‘Matterhorn’ of the Himalayas and, at least as seen from Namche, there is a certain similarity. The hanging glacier on the southwest face of Ama Dablam resembles a ‘Dablam’- the sacred ornament box worn by Sherpa women –giving rise to the name “Ama Dablam” or “Mother’s necklace”.
Mt. Ama Dablam is situated in the Khumbu region to the south of Everest and Lhotse. As you would expect, that allows for some stunning views during the climb as well as on the summit. The mountain stands above the famous Tyangboche Monastery, which is traditionally visited by climbers in the region. It should be noted that, despite the pleasing aspects, this climb is strenuous and demands proficiency in rock climbing, ice climbing, ample high-altitude experience, and overall technical prowess. There are steep ice sections to be overcome at high altitudes and there are sections of serious exposure, which can be particularly challenging.
For those with prior climbing experience who want to join a team of experts on an expedition to one of the world's most awe-inspiring mountains, the Ama Dablam Expedition is an excellent option. The most popular route for climbing Ama Dablam is the Southwest Ridge. The climb is often done with three camps along the ridge. They usually establish camp 3 just below and to the right of the hanging glacier- the Dablam, so that any ice that calves off the glacier often moves away from the camp. Nevertheless, a certain risk of serac falls cannot be avoided. For Ama Dablam Expeditions, the ideal climbing periods are April-May before the monsoon season, and October-November after the monsoon, as with other mountains nearby.
Experience Required:
For the Ama Dablam Expedition, all climbers need to have excellent skills in rock and ice climbing and be technically competent. We will fix ropes and make use of the existing infrastructure (if any). However, the climbers should possess the basic skills of climbing through steep rock and hard compact ice without them. We follow the standard Southwest ridge route (normal route) to the top, as it is considered the safer route with lower objective dangers of avalanches. We begin the approach as usual in the region from Lukla (2860m) and then slowly trek through the Sherpa villages along the trail. Before beginning the climbing period, we take our time to acclimate properly at base camp. Quality and safety are our top priorities at Snowy Horizon when carrying out this expedition. As always, the package can be flexibly adjusted to your requirements (in case you want some additional acclimatisation time beforehand, etc.) you can contact us any time for suggestions and advice. We’d be happy to take you on this adventure of Mt. Ama Dablam Expedition with our elite team.
Ama Dablam Expedition Base Camp Services:
- Snowy Horizon Treks & Expedition provides very professional, supportive and friendly mountaineering logistic services from Kathmandu to the ABC as well as during the Expedition.
- Our objective is to ensure good quality, supportive, safe, friendly, stress-free and comprehensive service to maximize the summit opportunity of the mountain.
- We provide a comprehensive service organizing all necessary permits, and climbing documentation, travelling logistics including airfares, ground transportation, porters, and other individual services required by mountaineers. On the trek to the ABC, we organize all required accommodations and food in teahouses.
- In the Base camp, our cook and helpers will prepare and serve three times delicious freshly cooked and plentiful meals a day and will ensure that hot and cold drinks are available 24hrs a day.
- We provide spacious expedition-quality personal tents for all our clients.
- We also provide a dining tent, kitchen tent, toilet facilities and portable shower facilities and tent accommodation for our staff.
- We provide access to communication, including satellite telephone and Internet access, and solar panels to charge your batteries.
Ama Dablam Expedition Full Board Additional Services:
- In full board Service, we provide a personal tent and food, which will be prepared by their climbing Sherpa on C1, C2 & C3.
- We provide UHF/VHF handheld radios on the mountain to maintain communications between ABC and high camps.
- We provide a personal climbing Sherpa guide to help the clients to reach the summit. Personal climbing Sherpa will set up camp 1, camp 2 and camp 3, including food and fuel provisions, and assist the client all the way to the summit on this technical climb, where one requires a climbing buddy. The climb requires cooperation between teams in setting up fixed ropes. Our camp manager and guides will coordinate work with other teams on the route setting.
Approaches to ABC:
The approach to the Base camp for Ama Dablam Expedition is short, sweet and beautiful beginning with the amazing flight to Lukla after a few hours' drive from Kathmandu to Manthali airport of Ramechhap and following the Everest Base camp trail through Namche Bazaar to Tyangboche and peeling off it just past Pangboche. The Base camp is located at 4600m.
Climbing Routes:
- The standard climbing route for Ama Dablam Expedition is via the Southwest ridge with a typical arrangement of 3 high camps: Camp 1 (5600m), Camp 2 (5900m) and Camp 3 (6200m) with Base Camp at 4600m and High Camp at 5000m as a store camp.
- The high camp is located 150m below the ridge and all other 3 camps are directly on the ridge, ensuring a great vantage point for all camps for stunning views.
Day-to-Day Itinerary:
18 Oct: Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu airport and transfer to hotel (1350m).
19 Oct: Day 02: Rest, last-minute shopping, preparation, and briefing in Kathmandu.
20 Oct: Day 03:Drive to Manthali (4 Hrs.), fly to Lukla (2840m); trek to Phakding (2600m-4 Hrs.); lodge.
21 Oct: Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m-7 Hrs.), lodge.
22 Oct: Day 05: Acclimatization in Namche, hike to Hotel Everest View (HEV), visit Hilary Museum.
23 Oct: Day 06: Trek to Tyangboche (3860m-5 Hrs.), visit Tyangboche Monastery; lodge.
24 Oct: Day 07:Trek to Pangboche(3985m-4 Hrs.); enjoy Sherpa culture; lodge.
25 Oct: Day 08: Trek to Ama Dablam base camp (4600m-3 Hrs.), camping.
26 Oct – 07 Nov: Day 09-21:Climbing period to summit Ama Dablam (6,814m).
08 Nov: Day 22: Trek back to Tyangboche (3860m-6 Hrs.); lodge.
09 Nov: Day 23: Trek to Monjo (2790m-7 Hrs.); lodge.
10 Nov: Day 24: Trek to Lukla (2840m-5 Hrs.); lodge.
11 Nov: Day 25: Fly to Manthali, drive to Kathmandu (4 Hrs.), transfer to Hotel, farewell dinner.
12 Nov: Day 26: Leisure or contingency day in Kathmandu.
13 Nov: Day 27: Transfer to the airport for final departure.
Day-to-Day Itinerary:
18 Apr: Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu airport and transfer to hotel (1350m).
19 Apr: Day 02: Rest, last-minute shopping, preparation and briefing in Kathmandu.
20 Apr: Day 03:Drive to Manthali (4 Hrs.), fly to Lukla (2840m); trek to Phakding (2600m-4 Hrs.); lodge.
21 Apr: Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar (3440m-7 Hrs.), lodge.
22 Apr: Day 05: Acclimatization in Namche, hike to Hotel Everest View (HEV), visit Hilary Museum.
23 Apr: Day 06: Trek to Tyangboche (3860m-5 Hrs.), visit Tyangboche Monastery; lodge.
24 Apr: Day 07:Trek to Pangbotche(3985m-4 Hrs.); enjoy Sherpa culture; lodge.
25 Apr: Day 08: Trek to Ama Dablam base camp (4600m-3 Hrs.), camping.
26 Apr –08 May: Day 09-21:Climbing period to summit Ama Dablam (6,814m).
09 May: Day 22: Trek back to Tyangboche (3860m-6 Hrs.); lodge.
10 May: Day 23: Trek to Monjo (2790m-7 Hrs.); lodge.
11 May: Day 24: Trek to Lukla (2840m-5 Hrs.); lodge.
12 May: Day 25: Fly to Manthali, drive to Kathmandu (4 Hrs.), transfer to Hotel, farewell dinner.
13 May: Day 26: Leisure or contingency day in Kathmandu.
14 May: Day 27: Transfer to the airport for final departure.
Full Board Service Cost : Please contact us by email or call us
Cost Include
- All arrival and departure transfers in Kathmandu for International and domestic flights.
- 4 Nights 3 Star Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on BB Plan (twin sharing).
- Flight and transfers for Kathmandu-Manthali-Lukla-Manthali-Kathmandu to member and guide.
- Guided teahouse trekking with full board meal and accommodation as per itinerary.
- Complete camping logistics with furniture, kitchenware, dining, kitchen, etc. in base camp.
- Full 3 meals (BLD) at base camp with single tent accommodation for each member.
- Government royalty for a permit to climb Mt. Ama Dablam with all formalities.
- Fully paid and insured government-approved liaison officer in the team (mandatory).
- Rope fixing facility by climbing Sherpa team of all operators/seasonal groups on high camps.
- 1:1 climbing Sherpa for support and assistance to the climbing member up to the summit.
- Wages, equipment, rescue medical, and accidental Insurance for all involved staff.
- Cooking set and required high altitude food for high camps climbing members and Sherpa.
- Solar panel for light and battery charging to your devices in the base camp.
- Emergency Oxygen, mask, and regulator for medical purposes for members.
- All tents for camps 1 and 2 (Optional Camp-3 if required), pitched by Sherpa.
- First Aid medical kits for the members and the staff involved in the expedition.
- Per climbing member gets a 30 KG personal baggage allowance for carrying by the porter.
- Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park entrance fees and trekking permit.
- Khumbu Pasang Lhamu village municipality entry permit and fees.
- Farewell dinner before departure with Snowy Horizon Management.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.).
- Our service charge and Government Taxes, levied in Nepal.
Cost Exclude
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
- Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit, and trekking gear.
- Any extra expenses arising from various/unforeseen situations, such as natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes, and changes in Government regulations.
- Any additional staff (s) other than specified.
- Summit bonus to your climbing Sherpa (Required begins from a minimum of US$ 700 per summit per Sherpa)
- Tips to base camp staffs (Per member beginning from a minimum of US$ 100.00 in total)
- Repatriation, medicines, medical tests, and hospitalization expenses for members.
- Travel insurance and helicopter rescue evacuation for members.
- Any other item not included in “The Service Includes” section.
Base Camp Service Cost : Please contact us by email or call us
Cost Include
- Lunch and Dinner during your stay in Kathmandu (except farewell dinner).
- Clothing, packing items or bags, personal medical kit and personal trekking gears.
- Any extra expenses arising out of various/unforeseen situations like natural calamities, landslides, political disturbances, strikes and changes in Government regulations.
- Rope fixing on high camps, climbing Sherpa for support, cooking set and high altitude food.
- Any tents for above camp 1 pitched by Sherpa or Snowy representative.
- Tips to base camp staffs (Per member beginning from a minimum of US$ 100.00 in total)
- Repatriation, medicines, medical tests and hospitalization expenses for members.
- Travel insurance and helicopter rescue evacuation for members.
- Any other item not included in the “The Service Includes” section.
Cost Exclude
- All arrival and departure transfers in Kathmandu for International and domestic flights.
- 4 Nights 3 Star Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu on BB Plan (twin sharing).
- Flight Tickets for Ramechhap-Lukla-Ramechhap with two-way transportation from Kathmandu.
- Guided teahouse trekking with full board meal and accommodation as per itinerary.
- Complete camping logistics with furniture, kitchenware, dining, kitchen, etc. in base camp.
- Full 3 meals (BLD) at base camp with single tent accommodation for each member.
- Government royalty for a permit to climb Mt. Ama Dablam with all formalities.
- Fully paid and insured government-approved liaison officer in the team (mandatory).
- Wages, equipment, rescue medical and accidental Insurance for all involved staffs.
- Solar panel for light and battery charging to your devices in the base camp.
- Emergency Oxygen, mask and regulator for medical purposes for members.
- First Aid medical kits for the members and the staffs involved in the expedition.
- Per climbing, a member gets a 30 KG personal baggage allowance for carrying by the porter.
- Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park entrance fees and trekking permit.
- Khumbu Pasang Lhamu village municipality entry permit and fees.
- Farewell dinner before departure with Snowy Horizon Management.
- Snowy Horizon Special Gifts (T-shirt/Pashmina etc.).
- Our service charge and Government Taxes levied in Nepal.
Notes
- Cost defers on Hotel Category for Hotels in Kathmandu.
- The itinerary is changeable and modifiable as per the needs and time frame of the clients.
- The cost will be re-calculated if the itinerary is changed or modified.
- Additional activities may be added as per request with nominal additional cost.
- For any kind of changes please contact us by email or call us.
Trip Facts
- Grade: Mountaineering
- Elevation: 6,814m (22,334ft)
- Location: Nepal/Everest Region
- Coordinates: 27°51′40″ N 86°51′40″ E
- First Ascent: Maurice Herzog (Nepal), June 3, 1950
- Season: spring (April-May) and autumn (October-December)
- Duration: 27 days (typically)
- Group Size: 02-15 person per Group
Attachments
Expedition FAQs
It all depends on the area. With most of the trekking routes having local VHF Phones; increasingly more places get mobile coverage of varied capacity; in remote communication is not available or very limited so the only option would be a satellite phones. Above the back and one climber to another we always provide radio set for expeditions.
Snowy horizon will provide thick quality base mat in the base camp and advance base camp but we request you to curry down filled Thermal rest style of airbed for the high camps.
The Advance Base Camp is always located at the glacier moraine and it is protected from landslides and avalanches. Camp 1 and 2 are also very safe location however camp 1 location has to be chosen wisely because some parts are prone to heavy snow accumulation during heavy snowfalls. Camp 3 is located below yellow bands and on a steep slope potentially prone to micro avalanches and sloth with fresh snow conditions.
8000m Expedition is the highest mountain expedition in the world. There are 17 mountains found located in Nepal. These mountain can be approached in a month to 45 days to summit from their base camp including return to the base camp. Generally 8000m mountains are between 8001m to below 8848.86m. The climbing permits for these peaks can be obtained from Department of Tourism in Nepal and Tibet Mountaineering Association in Tibet in co-ordination with Trekking and Mountaineering agencies like us.
It varies for different peaks and weather condition. Generally most of 8000 m peaks require 25-30 days to summit from the advance base camp summit and return. The access time varies also and depends on mountain location and elevation. The weather condition in the mean time will also allow taking few more days or less.
Yes, all climbers are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which include helicopter emergency evacuation. Insurance is not expensive comparing to the cost of expedition and potential cost of evacuation. Please contact or search the proper international insurance companies which are authorized and offer the required insurance policy.
A licensed, trained and experienced Climbing Sherpa Guide will lead you while climbing 8000 m mountain above Base camp. Below base camp and on trekking route will be lead by licensed Sardar or professional mountaineering/trekking guide.
In high camps we use freeze dry packet food from USA, UK or different countries. They offer variety of flavors, good quality and tasty meals. Your personal climbing Sherpa climbing guide will also melt sufficient ice for hot water, tea, coffee and verity of juice. In camp one, it is also possible to supply food from base camp. Just warm it and can eat.
Yes you require Tibet Permit to enter Tibet and we will arrange that with Chinese Embassy during your preparation period in Kathmandu. So we are collecting your visa with assistance of climbing permit. So you do not need main land china visa which does not work in Tibet. So, this visa only issue when you have climbing/travel permit authorization in Kathmandu.
There are no restrictions to obtain climbing permit. Anyone with appropriate fitness and skills can attempt an 8000m mountain. However we require accepting the booking for 8000 m climbing, who have at list 6000m – 7000m previous climbing experience. The climbers have Basic training & knowledge about ice and rock climbing, can ascent and decent in fixed line and proper use of Ice axe and crampons. For adventure climbing always require good physical fitness and not suffering with existence patients. Here we have to say for 8000 m climbs one needs to have an appropriate level of climbing experience. So climbing permit are the legal document and authorization to climb mountain from government of the particulars countries.
We employ trained high altitude expedition cook. In the kitchen we attempt to provide tasty, nutritious and healthy food. There will be lots of emphasis on carbohydrates, which is needed as a source of energy and they are also much easier to digest. We will attempt to provide fresh vegetable as much as possible. Cook will have a wide range of culinary repertoire and expedition members are encouraged to request their personal favorites to promote good appetite and consumption of adequate amount calories despite general high altitude lack of appetite. Different flavors of tea as well as coffee, snacks, juice and hot water will be available 24 hours.
Complete the booking form on the related and desired trip book page, select size of your group and required services and find out price for your group. Simply click on Make Inquiry/Book This Trip button and give us required details. We appreciate and value your business In order to secure your booking we require some deposit to be transfer to our bank account, scanned page of your passports, JPG format of your passport photos suitable for printing and your arriving flight details. Please do not forget to visit the link of our Terms and Conditions on this page.
At high altitude your cardio-pulmonary system is affected by low oxygen density and you can suffer from general breathing difficulties to Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) as well as your skin is susceptible to sunburn if not protected by cloths or sun block. The AMS is preventable through appropriate trekking pace and undertaking acclimatization.
There are few options to acclimatize some 6000 m trekking peak before departure for 8000 m expedition. Some of our clients take advantage of our Mera peak, Lobuche peak, Island peak and Pisang peak climb scheduled in spring and autumn just before departure for the expedition. This will give you acclimatization to 6000 m peak, which is equivalent to the altitude between camp 1 and camp 2 on most of the 8000 m peak. If you don't have time or resources you will acclimatize during the trip from the border to the base camp. Most of the 8000 m expedition, you will be ascend and descend several time to camp 1, 2 & 3 before summit. So you will have auto 6000 m and 7000 m experience of same mountain before summit. We “Team Snowy Horizon” always provide services as per the requirements of our clients and suitable for their experience.
Our climbing Sherpa guides are experienced and highly qualified live in high mountain region and growing above 4000 m elevation. We provide extensive training to our staff in technical climbing as well as little spoken English, customer relationships and Mountaineering Outdoor First Aid. So apart of professionalism you can expect warmth and genuine hospitality of Sherpa and Nepali culture. The expedition going to be lead by professional and government license holder high mountaineering qualified guide who have previous summit success of particular 8000 m expedition and 3 attempts.
Certain medical conditions (such as respiratory disease) or medications (such as sleeping pills) can increase the risk of altitude sickness - it is important that you inform your guide of any medical conditions or medications before ascending to altitude. You can help your body to acclimatize and avoid altitude sickness by:
• Avoiding alcohol, tobacco and substances that can interfere with good delivery of oxygen to the body
• Eating small, frequent meals high in carbohydrates
• Drinking plenty of water; the test of sufficient amount of water intake is ability to urinate colorless urine
• Taking it easy or have a rest. Walk at a slower pace than you would at sea level and avoid over-exertion
• Climb the mountain gradually and stop for a day or two of rest for every 600 m above 2,400 m
• Sleep at a lower altitude when possible
• Learn how to recognize early symptoms of mountain sickness
WHAT IS THE TREATMENT?
Most travelers are able to successfully acclimatize by following the previously mentioned guidelines. However, there are instances where medical treatment is required. Ultimately, the best treatment for AMS is to descend to a lower altitude and rest. Early diagnosis is important. Acute mountain sickness is easier to treat in the early stages.
Our guides have training and experience in AMS symptoms recognition, prevention and treatment. The guide will monitor your all the time for symptoms and will pace you appropriately to minimize your exposure to AMS. We ask you to cooperate with the guide by reporting any above described symptoms and allow your guide to undertake appropriate and timely action such as take a rest and have a drink or snack, help you to carry your day pack or change a pace, take extra day rest or descent if necessary.
Your Guide will carry some medications in First Aid Kit and may suggest medication such as Ibuprofen, Paracetamol, combination of them or specific AMS medication. Standard and effective medication for prevention of AMS is Acetazolamide (Diamox) and it may be given to help improve breathing and reduce mild symptoms. This drug can cause increased urination. Ensure you drink plenty of fluids and avoid alcohol when taking this drug.
With severe cases of AMS our guide will contact our Kathmandu office and arrange your evacuation by helicopter. Before we accept you on the trek we will require that you purchase health and travel insurance including helicopter rescue and hospitalization.
Yes the climbing permit is included in the package and we will organize the permit, visa and transport service from border to the base camp provided by CTMA (China Tibet Mountaineering Association). CTMA has the monopoly for the service as the Chinese government imposes strict control over foreigners travelling through Tibet.
The risks during the 8000 m climb are potential to develop AMS, gastric problems or physical injury such as bleeding or frostbites. Team Snowy Horizon maintains programs and procedures to prevent and avoid all the above. We always have appropriately equipped and up-to-date First Aid Kit with trained staff who knows how to use it effectively. We require each group member have valid Travel Insurance, which allows Medievac in case of emergency. We treat AMS, gastric issues, bleeding and frostbite. If required we activate emergency evacuation. There is no helicopter rescue available in Tibet and all rescues are to be done by Jeep and Manpower and by Manpower and Helicopters are used in Nepal.
There are some risks associated with nature’s disaster such as snowfall, landslide blocking the path and potential earthquake. We have developed western style and quality emergency and evacuation procedures to ensure safety on our expedition, which includes double back-up communication-channels to our office in Kathmandu to assists you with any emergency.
In case of road block during to massive landslide or earthquake we will evacuate the expedition members via plane through Lhasa and helicopter from Nepal Himalaya. Such a case is considered emergency evacuation due to natural disaster and the price of airfare or helicopter should be covered by your travel insurance.
There is no legal requirement to join the climbing group to climb mountain but Tibet mountaineering association generally require minimum 4 person to issue the climbing permit. However, climbing solo is an expensive as well as unsafe practice in 8000 m mountain. It is recommended to hire the guide even for simple routes and join with group is more safe, secure and have better summit opportunity.
On popular trekking trails we will stay in lodges/ guest houses and the meals will be cooked for you with menu meals often available including soups, noodles, rice, and chosen dishes. Some 8000 m trekking routes are with limited tea house and limited choice. Similarly, some remote trekking routes are without tea houses and thus our staff will provide you camping accommodation with 3 meals. In the expeditions our professional cooking team will prepare all 3 meals for you in Advance base camps. Above the base camp our climbing Sherpa guide will prepare you high altitude prepared meal with soups and hot drinks.
In the 8000 peak expedition, equipment, food, and climbing and personal gear will be delivered by jeep, truck and flight till available place and height. Afterwards, we will use Yaks/porters or mules to reach at base camp or high camp. When you use full board service with us, we provide personal climbing Sherpa guide (1:1 ratio or as per demand) your personal climbing Sherpa guide will take your camping gears and food to camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (as required), setup your tents and prepare your high altitude food. If you share climbing Sherpa service you will be expected to contribute by carrying light load to high camps. If you use base camp logistic service only, then you have to manage and carry the food, equipment, tents, climbing gear by your own and open the route too. There will be zero responsibility with us for above Base Camp if you are using our base camp service facility only.
All foreign visitors except Indian nationals are requiring Nepalese visa. We have on arrival visa service for most of the countries except, Some African country, Afghanistan and Pakistan. These years, Nepalese Immigration has introduced online computerized automated visa system making arrival Immigration process fast and convenient. You can go to the link https://www.immigration.gov.np/ and get updated visa granting policy information.
Acute Altitude Sickness is the reaction of the body adjusting to decreasing amount of oxygen in the bloodstream. The higher the altitude, the less oxygen is available for the body to carry on normal functions. This is caused by decreased partial pressure of Oxygen, a difference between external and inter cellular pressures.
Altitude sickness most commonly occurs from above 3000 m meters (9,842 ft) but this is different for everyone - there is simply no way of knowing your own susceptibility prior to being at the altitude thus it is vital you monitor your own health. In principle, higher cardiovascular fitness decreases susceptibility to AMS. Symptoms of AMS may be mild and subside/go away after a day's rest, or if it ignored it could lead to serious health issues including death. All biking adventure participants are required to purchase adequate Travel Insurance, which doesn't exclude helicopter emergency evacuation.
Symptoms can appear within 1-2 hours although most often appear 6-10 hours after ascent and generally subside in 1-2 days as the body adjusts to altitude. They may reappear as you continue to go higher. Symptoms of AMS usually occur gradually and can be one or a combination of the following:
• Headache
• Difficulty sleeping
• Shortness of breath
• Loss of appetite
• Disturbed sleep or drowsiness
• Irritability
• Fatigue
• Nausea/vomiting
• Dizziness
• Rapid pulse
• Swelling of hands, feet & face
Symptoms generally associated with more severe Acute Mountain Sickness include:
• Bluish discoloration of the skin (cyanosis)
• Chest tightness or congestion
• Confusion
• Cough
• Coughing up blood
• Decreased consciousness or withdrawal from social interaction
• Grey or pale complexion
• Inability to walk in a straight line, or to walk at all
• Shortness of breath at rest
At high altitude all people will experience some of the above symptoms in a mild form. If the body is unable to adjust to altitude these symptoms will persist and, if they are left untreated, altitude sickness may progress to High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE) or High Altitude Pulmonary Edema (HAPE). Edema means simply fluid accumulation in your interstitial body tissues. Both HACE and HAPE can be fatal if ignored.
WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HAPE (fluid in the lungs)?
• Breathlessness
• A dry cough, developing to a wet one with blood-tinged discharge or saliva
• Tightness in the chest & blueness/darkness of face, lips & tongue
• Low fever up to 38°C/100°F
• Severe fatigue, progressing to coma
WHAT ARE THE SYMPTOMS OF HACE (fluid in the brain)?
• Severe headache symptoms not relieved by painkillers or lying down
• Confusion, disorientation & drowsiness
• Nausea/vomiting
• Loss of balance or coordination
• Blurred or double vision/retinal hemorrhage
We will take a jeep to Kerung the Tibetan boarder, from where our partner the Tibet Mountain Association (TMA) will provide transportation by jeep and hotel accommodation in Kerung and Tingri on the way to the Chinese base camp and back to the border. After 2 days acclimatization rest it will take 2 days trekking to arrive to the advanced base camp with the luggage carried by yaks to and from the ABC.
Please click on climbing equipment list, where you will find recommended climbing Gear List. If this information is not sufficient for you please e-mail us info@snowyhorizon.com
We recommend you to purchasing down gear as well as fleece and Gore-Tex jackets from the brand quality such as North face, Ozark, Marmot. In 8000 m expedition we advice to use One sport millet or La-sportive climbing boots, personal gear is one of the major factor for mountaineering for successful summit opportunity. in personal gear for trekking, climbing and mountaineering due to innovative design and high quality manufacturing equivalent or better, for Himalayan use, to leading western brands.
You will also require basic climbing gear such as helmet, Ice-axes, crampons, climbing and trekking boots and following climbing hardware: alpine style of harness (Black Diamond Alpine Bode), ascender device, rappel device, minimum 4 karabiners (2 locking and 2 non-locking) and 4 Prussic loops (2 long and 2 short). Your info pack will contain details.
Spring and autumn are the best seasons in Nepal, and in general September/October and April/ May are the best months among the year in Himalaya. However, in Pakistan Mountains are always open for climbing in rainy season like June, July and August.
To climb high elevation peak the health and fitness is a paramount criteria. The level of fitness required is proportional to 8000 m elevation and route difficulty and length.
Yes, Snowy Horizon representative will waiting for you in International airport with your name card. Once you arrive in Kathmandu we will transfer you to the hotel. We monitor time of your arrival and we will be there on-time. All you need to do is to collect your luggage, clear customs and proceed to the outside of the terminal. Kathmandu International terminal is very small. Once you come outside the building you see your name displayed by our representative, who will transfer you to the hotel.
In Kathmandu we provide required category hotel accommodation which may locate in quiet part of city center Thamel. In Tibet CTMA provides transport and accommodation service between the border and the base camp. The accommodation in Tibet is better than in Nepal. However, due to CTMA monopoly we have absolutely no control and choice over that. As part of the service they will provide only bed and breakfast on Chinese style. During the travel you may have to pay the bill of your lunch and dinner as well as beverages you used.
Snowy Horizon Treks and Expedition operates 8000 m expedition in spring and autumn seasons exceptionally we may operate such expeditions in winter too. We operate mountaineering expedition offers a great introduction to 8000 m climbing in a quality and safe environment. 8000 m climb is a serious physiological undertaking with snow ridge climb and some simple ice-climbing. It is considered by many 8000 m climbing enthusiasts a pre-requisite for attempting Everest expedition. There is no other 8000 m climbing or mountaineering experience required, but high level of endurance fitness will be require to start 8000 m expedition. Previous 6000 m or 7000 m experience is fully supportive and confidence you for climb. Snowy Horizon will provide guided preparations for you. So, if you have good health, physical fitness and ice and rock climbing experience this will work.
As per our previous experience, we advise you to have 2 sleeping bags during expedition, eligible for -20-25°C in ABC and one is for high camps -30-40°C. There are blankets available at trekking trail however you may use -20°C sleeping bag in the lodges at Kerung and Tingri if you feel uncomfortable with blankest provided by the hotel.
Cho Oyu expedition is a very serious physiological undertaking with some technical aspect. You should be in general good physical shape to start with. Generally our customers for Cho Oyu expedition are bike riders or recreational runners and many test themselves with occasional 10 km city fun runs or 50 km mountain bike rides or 100 km road rides. Considerable number of clients have at some stage completed marathon run. You don't need to be competitive just to be able to complete run or ride within average event time. If you completed one of the above within last 6 months you are well pre-qualifying and ready for Cho Oyu expedition. If you are in a good shape, the only thing you have to do now is 3 month ramp-up before the adventure. You should aim to jog three to four times weekly trying to get your 10 km within 1 hour or 100 km road ride within 5 hours, which will mean that you can sustain continuous exercise. To prepare for that you should preference outdoor step training or riding hills minimum twice a week. The more hills and steps you manage to get in, the more enjoyable the ride will be and you will also get more benefits out of the adventure.
There is section of 10 m ice cliffs from where you need to be able to rappel with confidence. We offer rappel clinics in Australia, so please contact us about it.
Q. What weather should I expect during the trip?
The adventure is scheduled during spring and autumn with the climbing window scheduled for monsoon change period, where wind stops at 8000 m for a week or so before the monsoon changes direction. Please check average temperature and precipitation in Tingri here.
The difference between spring and autumn expedition is change of temperatures from cold to warmer and from warmer to cold respectively.
You need to obtain your travel insurance before you arrive to Kathmandu. Your insurance should cover adequate search & rescue and evacuation cost for mountaineering in particular elevation where you go with necessary medication. Please contact or search the proper international insurance companies which are authorized and offer the required insurance policy.
Children below 15 Years are Restricted for 8000 m climbing in Himalaya from Nepal. Similarly it is not allowed to climb Tibet Mountain below 18 years. Above that age can climb without limitation.
Our high altitude Sherpa climbing guides are qualified through training with NMA, TAAN or NATHAM and have many years of experience and are highly skilled in all aspects of Mountaineering in Nepal and hold a Nepal Government License and Mountaineering Association Accreditation and Summit Certificates for Nepal Himalayan peaks. Government Licenses are displayed in our office. Our main objective is to provide quality of service with experience climbing staff where you have maximum enjoyable and unforgettable trips. Our first priority is for safety and secure Mountaineering. For that you always need experience climbing Sherpa guide. With our background in climbing and mountaineering logistics services, we understand requirements of independent climbers and employ climbing guides. Everest Submitter certified by Nepal Mountaineering Association and have certified skills in First Aid, Altitude/Mountain Sickness prevention, treatment training and Rescue Protocol training.
When you arrive at base camp, our staff set up the camp and you will be resting and prepare for proper acclimatization. Once all of the climbers, climbing Sherpa guide and base camp staff have worship (Pooja) at base camp, our Climbing Sherpa guide will open the route and proceed for fixing the Camp one. After supply the food and needed equipment by Sherpa guide you will be taken to acclimate at camp 1 for overnight. According to your physical fitness and reaction of your body our Sherpa guide may hold another night at camp one and next day hike up to camp 2 and descend down to base camp. Similarly, our high altitude Sherpa guide will open the route fix the camp 2 and then supply gears, equipment and meals. Afterwards you will be acclimatized likewise. If it requires and weather condition seems good, they will allow you to sleep one more night at camp 2 and return back to base camp via camp one right for rest. Similarly during your rest and recovering time at Base camp, our Sherpa guide will open the route for camp 3; fix the camp/line and supply food, oxygen, equipment they will come back to base camp and waiting for summit push.
After your camp 1 and 2 acclimatization, our climbing Sherpa guide will check the weather forecast, group fitness and recovery condition. If upcoming weather reports, your physical fitness and Sherpa guide condition allow them to decide for summit push then, they start and planning for summit push. On the summit plan, you will be going to sleep camp 1, 2 and 3 before summit days. In the last night you will be resting till 01:00 am at camp 3. Your climbing Sherpa guide will prepare Dinner before sleep. Early in the morning our staff going to boil the water, prepare light breakfast and starting your mission of the summit. Some strong climbers start to summit push from camp 2 and may plan to return at camp 2, however we will not advice you to plan to summit form camp 2 in general. Hence, Team Snowy Horizon always fixes camp 3 at Cho-Oyu before summit unless you deny by your own. After the summit, we plan to come down at camp 2 but if you are unable to continue our climbing Sherpa prepare food and water for you at Camp 3.. Next morning clean the camp 3 and 2 and descend down to camp 1 and next day at Advance base camp.
In case of some unforeseen circumstances due to any reason like bad weather, group physical fitness, accident, incidence we have to return back at base camp before summit push and cancel the summit plan. If we still have climbing duration, better weather condition and climbers are interested for re-try, we will provide you for one more opportunity to attempt the summit push. However, in our previous experience, more than 98% climbers are either success or give up the trip after first try.
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Snowy Horizon Treks and Expedition Pvt. Ltd.
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