“Explore and climb Mt. Baruntse (7129m), located in the heart of Khumbu Region and the lap of Mt. Everest and Mt. Makalu as one of the popular 7000m expedition in Nepal”
Mt. Baruntse lies in the heart of the Khumbu Region on the lap of Mt. Everest and Mt. Makalu. This mountain is becoming famous like Mt. Pumori, Ama Dablam and Mt. Everest for expeditions in this region. Baruntse is another attractive Mountain for climbing due to its location, classical symmetrical beauty and relatively accessibility to climbers across a wide range of skills. It is the most accessible 7000-meter peak in the region besides having a normal route of ascent. World-famous summiteers Edmund Hillary and Jim McFarland were also the summiteers of Mt. Baruntse. Colin Todd and Geoff Harrow ascended Baruntse firstly on 30 May 1954.
The Southeast Ridge of Baruntse is a bit difficult because of being a straightforward and hard way to climb. In the Expedition of Mt. Baruntse, there are hard sections of 50 Degrees elevation with a prominent ice cliff for climbing and facing the risk of avalanche. The climbers have succeeded in the mountain mostly in the spring season because of being the best season for the climber for safety. However, some climbers have reached the top of this mountain in the autumn season too.
Baruntse Expedition is an experience sense of being in a remote area without investing a considerable amount of time and effort. There are two ways of getting to the peak from Lukla via Mera La Pass and Hunku glacier with a possibility of climbing Mera peak as a part of the adventure and from Tumlingtar along the Makalu access trek and West Barun glacier. The second option offers also a crossover and walk-out via Mera La pass to Lukla, a full spectrum adventure.
The ascent route for Baruntse Expedition is through the southern ridge overhanging the famous West pass; this is in fact the traditional route opened by Hillary and Ship Ton in 1952. The regular approach begins at Lukla and takes you across the Hongu valley, one of the most fertile regions in Nepal, passing northward through a beautiful alpine environment. The walk passes through delightful Sherpa country and provides for excellent acclimatization. The Baruntse base camp is at an altitude of around 5400m and sits near the pristine lakes below Amphu Lapcha pass. The route then follows a long ridge leading to the summit. An ascent on Baruntse is an adventure for climbers wishing to meet a true Nepalese 7000-meter Peak.
To reach camp 1 (6100m) located on the West Col on the edge of Upper Barun glacier, we cross Hunku glacier to a steep gully leading directly toward. For the 150m steep and 50deg climb to the West Col from the glacier, there will be fixed ropes to provide a beeline to camp-1 for safe carrying of the loads required for the climb.
Camp 2 (6400m) is located on the edge of the Upper Barun glacier at the start of Southeast Ridge. From camp 1 at West Col, we begin a long glacier ascent on a low angled glacial slope; we may use a fixed rope to protect against open or hidden crevasses.
From camp-2 we climb-up is a short steep 75 degrees ice wall to a small Col at 6500m. The next section to 6700m is a 45deg snow shoulder after which we reach a sharp summit ridge of Baruntse, which we follow to the wide summit cone leading to Mitru summit at 7129m. The view from the summit is just incredible, truly stunning views of Lhotse, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Kanchenjunga, Makalu, and the Khumbu Himal.
18 Oct: Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu airport and transfer to hotel (1350m).
19 Oct: Day 02: Rest, last-minute shopping, preparation and briefing in Kathmandu.
20 Oct: Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2840m); trek to Chhutang (3020m-3 Hrs.), lodge.
21 Oct: Day 04: Trek to Thuli Kharka (3900m-6 Hrs.) via Zatrawa La Pass (4610m); lodge.
22 Oct: Day 05: Trek from Thuli Kharka to Kothe (4095m-6 Hrs.); lodge.
23 Oct: Day 06: Trek from Kothe to Thangnak (4,350m-5 Hrs.); lodge.
24 Oct: Day 07: Rest and acclimatization day at Thangnak.
25 Oct: Day 08: Trek from Thangnak to Khare (5,045m-4 Hrs.); lodge.
26 Oct: Day 09: Rest and acclimatization day at Khare, explore Mera High Camp (5600m).
27 Oct: Day 10:Trek via Mera La (5320m) to Kongmadin (4800m-5 Hrs.), camping.
28 Oct: Day 11: Trek to Seto Pokhari Camp (5000m-5 Hrs.), camping.
29 Oct: Day 12: Trek to Baruntse Base Camp (5400m-4 Hrs.) and prepare base camp, camping.
30 Oct -14Nov: Days 13-28: Climbing period (Baruntse BC- Summit, 7129m-Baruntse BC)
15 Nov: Day 29: Clean Base Camp, trek to Kongmadin (4800m-5 Hrs.), camping.
16 Nov: Day 30: Trek from Kongmadin to Khare (5,045m-6 Hrs.); lodge.
17 Nov: Day 31: Trek via Thangnak to Kothe (4095m-6 Hrs.); lodge.
18 Nov: Day 32: Trek from Kothe to Thuli Kharka (3900m-5 Hrs.); lodge.
19 Nov: Day 33: Trek from Thuli Kharka to Lukla (2850m-7 Hrs.); lodge.
20 Nov: Day 34: Fly to Kathmandu (5 Hrs.), transfer to Hotel; farewell dinner.
21 Nov: Day 35: Rest, D-Briefing and evening farewell dinner.
22 Nov: Day 36: Transfer to the airport for final departure
16 April: Day 01: Arrival at Kathmandu International Airport and transfer to the Hotel.
17 April: Day 02: Preparation, Briefings, and half-day sightseeing in Kathmandu.
18 April: Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2800m)and trek to Chhutang (3020m), lodge.
19 April: Day 04: Trek from Chhutang to Thuli Kharka (3900m) via Zatrawa La Pass (4610m).lodge. 20 April: Day 05: Trek from Thuli Kharka to Kothe (4095m)., lodge.
21 April: Day 06: Trek from Kothe to Thangnak (4,350m), lodge. 22 April: Day 07: Rest and acclimatization day at Thangnak.
23 April: Day 08: Trek from Thangnak to Khare (5,045m), lodge. 25 April: Day 09: Rest and acclimatization day at Khare.
26 April: Day 10: Trek to Mera La (Pass) (5350m.), camping.
27 April: Day 11: Trek to Seto Pokhari Camp(4850m), camping.
27 April: Day 12: Trek to Baruntse Base Camp and prepare Base Camp, camping.
28 April-08 May: Days 13-25: Climbing period (Baruntse summit period-7129m)
09 May: Day 24: Preparation to returning (Clean Base Camp) Trek to Seto Pokhari (4850m), camping. 10 May: Day 25: Trek to Mera La (5350m), camping.
11 May: Day 26: Trek to Thangnak (4356m), lodge.
12 May: Day 27: Trek to Thuli Kharka, lodge.
13 May: Day 28: Trek from Thuli Kharka to Lukla, lodge.
14 May: Day 29: Fly from Lukla to Kathmandu, free day.
15 May: Day 30: Rest, D-Briefing and evening farewell dinner.
16 May: Day 31: Transfer to the airport for final departure